This time, I’ll report on my visit to the Christmas market in Colmar, called the jewel of France’s eastern Alsace region, at the end of 2024. The Alsace region has unique charm where French and German cultures merge, and it’s especially enveloped in a fantastical atmosphere during the Christmas season.
Access to Colmar
This time, I enjoyed Colmar as a day trip from Frankfurt, Germany. From Frankfurt, it’s about 2.5 hours by car, or about 3 hours by train including connections. Additionally, Colmar is easily accessible from Paris by TGV (high-speed rail) in about 2.5 hours, and from Strasbourg by regional train in about 30 minutes.
A day trip from Frankfurt is perfectly feasible – departing early morning allowed me to fully enjoy until evening. Thanks to the early departure, savoring Colmar’s quiet morning atmosphere was absolutely the right choice.
Colmar’s Charm
Colmar is a beautiful city also called “Little Venice,” famous as one of the model locations for Studio Ghibli’s “Howl’s Moving Castle.” The colorful half-timbered houses lining the streets and the Lauch River flowing through the city create a sensation of wandering into a fairy tale world.
I arrived around 9 AM when the market stalls were opening, and at this time there were hardly any tourists yet, allowing me to enjoy the sight of locals preparing and the quiet morning scenery. If visiting early, this time period is highly recommended. It’s a luxurious time to have the quiet city all to yourself.
Early morning Colmar
Winter Colmar was considerably more misty than I had imagined, with an overall fantastical atmosphere wrapped in fog. Unlike the vivid scenery under clear blue skies depicted in anime and fairy tales, it had a mystical and slightly melancholic beauty. The weather was quite different from the crisp conditions I had envisioned, so travelers should be aware of this gap. However, this had its own unique charm, and I was glad to experience such otherworldly atmosphere.
Colmar’s Christmas Market
Colmar’s Christmas market is typically held from late November until December 30th. There are multiple markets in the city center, each with its own character. Major markets are located in the Old Customs Square, Dominique Square, and Little Venice area.
Visiting around 9 AM opening time, some stalls were still preparing, and you could see locals leisurely spending their morning time. This time period has hardly any tourists and offers precious time to enjoy the city’s authentic character in tranquility.
However, the situation changes dramatically after 11 AM. Especially on weekends, many tourists flock not only from within France but also from neighboring Germany and Switzerland, and by noon the streets are packed with people. The popular Little Venice area particularly develops queues of people seeking photo spots. The atmosphere transforms from quiet morning to vibrant bustle.
By noon it was packed with local residents and tourists
The market sells traditional Christmas decorations, Alsace regional specialties, warm drinks, and light meals. Glühwein (mulled wine) and Flammkuchen (thin pizza-like dish) are popular, though menus vary by stall. Traditional Alsatian foods like pretzels can also be easily enjoyed. Christmas ornaments and Alsatian wines perfect for souvenirs are also sold.
Shop offering wine and pretzels
Colmar’s Christmas market covers an extensive area. Even the local permanent market becomes Christmas-themed.
The Mystical Scene of Little Venice
The area called Little Venice (Petite Venise) is famous as Colmar’s most photogenic spot. Colorful half-timbered houses line the canal, creating postcard-like scenery.
The scene when visiting early morning was particularly impressive. On the winter morning, mysterious steam was rising from the river. Perhaps because the river water temperature was higher than the outside air temperature? This phenomenon combined with morning mist created a fantastical atmosphere as if wandering into another world.
Walking along the canal, colorful houses faintly emerging from the fog, wavering building reflections on the water surface, and steam rising from the river – this combination created magical scenery reminiscent of “Howl’s Moving Castle.” However, this wasn’t the bright, vivid colorful world seen in anime, but a more mystical landscape with depth.
In the morning, you can enjoy this beautiful scenery in an almost private setting, but by afternoon it overflows with tourists, requiring long waits even to take photos at the same spots.
The riverside has many stylish general stores and antique shops, so leisurely strolling is recommended
How Was It?
The real pleasure of visiting Colmar in the Alsace region during winter might be enjoying two completely different faces: the bustling, glamorous daytime face crowded with tourists, and the mystical morning face wrapped in fog.
The tranquility and fantastical scenery experienced by visiting around 9 AM reveals the true charm of this city known as the setting for “Howl’s Moving Castle.” However, it’s not the vivid colorful world seen in anime or photo books, but like a winter fairy tale with misty, mystical beauty. Steam rising from canals, half-timbered houses emerging from fog, cobblestone paths wrapped in silence… the magical space these elements weave is a special experience never available during the tourist-packed midday hours.
For those considering European travel during the 2024 Christmas season, I highly recommend Colmar, accessible even as a day trip from Frankfurt. However, if possible, I recommend staying one night to enjoy everything from quiet morning hours to evening illuminations.
Above all, please witness with your own eyes the fantastical scenery emerging from morning mist. It’s a magical moment that internet photos can never convey, valuable only through actual experience.
(※Mid-December 2024, day trip from Frankfurt. Information is current as of visit time)