Silk Road Adventure: A Journey to the Mysterious Kumtag Desert Near the Lost City of Loulan

Did you know that China, just next to Japan, has vast deserts that rival those of Arabia?

On a day when freezing winds swept across the dunes, I visited the Kumtag Desert, which spreads across the eastern part of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. In this land where the ancient Loulan Kingdom once flourished, endless sandy terrain still stretches out today. In this post, I’ll share my experience visiting the Kumtag Desert (库姆塔格沙漠).

Shanshan: A Town That Inherits the Memory of the Silk Road

The ancient city of Loulan, once a key point on the Silk Road, has now changed its name to Shanshan.

The gateway to the Kumtag Desert is a small town called Shanshan. With a population of just a few tens of thousands, this town is known as a place that inherits the history of ancient Loulan. Loulan flourished as an important relay point on the Silk Road from before the Common Era until around the 3rd century. Modern Shanshan is located near this ancient city that perished due to climate change that altered river courses and led to desertification.

The journey to Shanshan is filled with richly atmospheric scenery. I’ll report on this in another article.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Turpan. Interestingly, this region has another fascinating characteristic. It’s actually near the “Eurasian Pole of Inaccessibility” (the point farthest from any ocean) in geographical terms. The enormous distance of 2,648 km in a straight line to the nearest coastline seems to tell the story of how long the journey along the ancient Silk Road must have been.

Encountering a Commercialized Desert

A gate that welcomes visitors with the enthusiasm of an amusement park

Traveling from Turpan through Shanshan, I finally arrived at the Kumtag Desert. What I saw there was an unexpected sight. The entrance to the desert stands like the gateway to an amusement park. Having imagined an untouched desert, I was initially a bit perplexed, but perhaps this is the new approach to desert tourism in China.

This desert has apparently been gaining attention recently as a popular tourist spot within China. Young people enjoying sandboarding, Instagrammers engrossed in taking photos. Camels for tourists are stationed near the entrance, nonchalantly chewing on hay despite the presence of tourists. I was told that during summer, there are tours where you can ride camels and roam the desert.

The Unexpected Face of a Winter Desert

Stepping onto the dunes with fully protected snow boots

I visited during winter. The temperature was a frigid -5°C (23°F). While deserts typically evoke images of scorching heat, here complete cold-weather gear was essential. However, that harsh cold seemed trivial in the face of the scenery that spread out before me.

Moving away from the commercialized entrance, I entered a completely different world. In stark contrast to the entrance area that had been teeming with tourists just moments ago, here untouched dunes stretched endlessly to the horizon without any footprints. The delicate sand patterns created by the wind resembled works of art drawn on the earth. With few people around, I could encounter the desert in its true form amid the silence.

Harmony between the Artificial and Natural

The intricate and delicate sand patterns are works of art created by the wind over a long time

The desert’s sand patterns were natural works of art created by the wind over time. Wave-like curves spread out like geometric patterns, presenting a perfect landscape before me, untrampled by anyone’s footprints. However, behind this beauty, there was actually human intervention.

A vehicle pulling equipment similar to a “dragnet” (used for leveling sports fields) racing across the dunes

Glancing to the side, I saw a vehicle pulling large equipment carefully leveling the desert surface, much like preparing a sports field. Learning that this was an effort to maintain the desert’s natural beauty while accommodating many tourists, I felt I had glimpsed a modern way of interacting with the desert. Perhaps artificial management is necessary. Nevertheless, the delicate sand patterns created by the wind blowing across this surface were undeniably art produced by nature itself.

A New Form of Desert Tourism

Alone on an isolated island in a sea of sand. This desert was full of otherworldly atmosphere that made me forget any unpleasant thoughts.

My experience in the Kumtag Desert significantly changed my preconceived notions of what a “desert” is. Certainly, this place differs from Morocco’s Sahara Desert or Dubai’s desert. Yet it preserves traces of ancient times while offering modern ways to enjoy it. That’s the new form of desert tourism I found there.

Tourist facilities are well-developed, and artificial management is thorough. Nevertheless, beyond the vast dunes stretches the same sky that the people of Loulan once looked up at.

Before the sun set, I climbed the dunes one last time. As the sun sinking in the west dyed the sandy terrain golden, I searched for traces of Loulan in the distance. Perhaps such a luxurious moment can only be experienced in this Kumtag Desert.

Advice for Visitors

– Cold weather protection is essential during winter
– Various activities such as camel riding and buggy tours are available from spring
– A camera is a must, but don’t forget to protect your equipment from sand
– High-cut shoes are recommended to prevent sand from getting in
– Buggy tours are popular, so advance reservations are recommended

Silence and bustle, history and modernity, nature and artifice. The Kumtag Desert is a place where opposites show a mysterious harmony. The unexpected charm I found in this desert, which I visited in search of the romance of the Silk Road, will surely remain an unforgettable memory in my heart.

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