At the age of 20, I was traveling through Morocco with just a backpack. The exotic streets, desert winds, and ancient culture—everything captivated me completely. However, behind all this were numerous challenges waiting for me. In this unfamiliar North African journey, I was pickpocketed, pressured to buy cannabis, and overcharged at markets—such incidents continued, and I gradually began to close off my heart. Among these experiences, the days I spent in the labyrinth city of Fez still appear vividly in my dreams. Most of the photos from my trip to Fez were lost due to a smartphone malfunction, but occasionally those scenes flash back in my dreams. In this article, I’d like to share my experiences in Fez as a personal memoir.
In the Labyrinth City of Fez
The ancient city of Fez, famous for its tanneries. As an aside, adventurous travelers should experience the intense odor of Fez’s tanneries at least once in their lifetime.
Traveling through several Moroccan cities, I finally arrived in Fez. Fez is also called the labyrinth city, and its Medina (old town) is intricately woven like a maze. On my very first day in Fez, I got lost and couldn’t find my way back to my accommodation no matter which way I walked. As fatigue and frustration mounted, a young man approached me. “I know the streets of this town well, let me guide you,” he said. Clinging to his words, I followed him and was able to safely return to my accommodation. However, immediately after, he demanded money, saying, “I helped you, so give me XX dirhams?” While I was filled with gratitude for his guidance, I felt very disappointed to think that his kindness was motivated by money. After a series of such incidents, I increasingly lost trust in people.
The Old Man’s Guesthouse
A Fez guesthouse whose name I don’t even know. Probably doesn’t accept online reservations through platforms like Booking.com.
In Fez, I stayed at a budget accommodation within the Medina. Despite being budget-friendly, due to the cost of living it was a relatively well-built guesthouse. There I met an old man over 80 years old who ran the guesthouse alone. He was unusual in Fez in that he could speak a little English, and moreover, he exuded kindness. Having become completely distrustful of people, I found my first sense of peace under the care of this old man.
An Incident in the Nighttime Labyrinth Alleys
One night, I was walking through the dimly lit alleys of the Medina. As a cool breeze caressed my skin, I was suddenly addressed from behind. “What are you doing in this town?” When I turned around, a young man was glaring at me. “I came for sightseeing,” I answered, but he wasn’t satisfied. “That’s a lie. Then why are you walking with such an unhappy face?”
In a deserted alley of the old town, I was approached by a local young man with bloodshot eyes.
I must have been exhausted and had a grim expression. “I’ve been deceived by various people in this country, so I’m just walking with caution,” I explained, but it didn’t get through to him. With bloodshot, glaring eyes and an expression full of hatred, he raised his voice, “Someone with such a grim face must be a bad person. You came here to commit crimes, didn’t you?”
Thinking this could be dangerous, I tried to leave quickly. However, the young man stuck right by my side and persistently continued to insult me. He seemed to genuinely believe I was a criminal. Or perhaps my demeanor, seemingly not enjoying my Moroccan journey, had triggered his anger. The young man’s tone gradually intensified, repeatedly saying things like “I’ll spread the word to my friends” and “Get out of this country.” Walking through nighttime Fez for several minutes, nervous about when he might physically confront me, I finally approached my guesthouse and quickly dashed inside. As I closed the door, a sigh of relief escaped me.
Seeing this, the old man worriedly approached me. “What’s wrong?” he asked. I explained the situation, telling him I was being chased by a young man who was treating me like a criminal. The old man smiled kindly and said, “It’s okay, it’s okay. I’ll protect you, so please go to your room and rest assured.” Truly reassured by his words, I went to sleep in my room.
Afterward, it seems the young man was driven away by the old man that night, and ultimately I wasn’t harmed during my stay. I had been worried that the young man would portray me as a criminal and I would be chased out of the entire town of Fez, but it seems the well-connected old man somehow resolved the situation. When I heard about this from the old man the next morning, I was filled with gratitude.
Breakfast with the Old Man
The day of my departure arrived. As I woke up early and prepared to check out, the old man invited me, “Would you like to have breakfast together one last time? I’ll treat you to a recommended dish.” As someone who was reluctant to leave Fez, this was a very welcome invitation.
We went to a restaurant near the guesthouse and had breakfast together. The old man told me, “When guests who have stayed at my guesthouse depart, having breakfast together like this is my joy.” With those words, I felt I understood why the old man ran this guesthouse in the town of Fez.
I enjoyed the final moments with this old man full of human warmth. By the way, I had thought the old man would cover the meal, but I ended up paying for the entire breakfast. “Wait, this is different from what I expected…?” I was a bit confused, but watching the old man gazing at me with a carefree smile, I felt it was foolish to be bothered by such a small matter.
That morning, the sky in Fez was clear, and soft light illuminated the cobblestones of the Medina. Engraving this final moment with the old man in my heart, I embarked on a new journey. That kindness, that sense of security, still remains in my heart. Ten years have passed since then. I wonder if the old man has now passed 90 years of age. Since the guesthouse didn’t have internet access and the old man didn’t have any social media accounts, there’s no way to contact him. However, I want to continue traveling, dreaming of the day when I can visit Fez again and meet the old man.
The breeze on the rooftop of the guesthouse in Fez was very pleasant. In the course of my long life, I hope to visit again someday.
