Lunch with a View in Sur, Oman – Relaxing by the Sea at Al Hawash Restaurant (Part 1)

During our drive westward through Oman, we stopped at the port town of Sur

On our journey from the desert region of Wahiba Sands to the beautiful canyon of Wadi Shab in Oman, we decided to make a stop at the historic port town of Sur. Our goal was to spend some relaxing time enjoying local flavors to rejuvenate our bodies after a long drive. Al Hawash Restaurant, where we could savor traditional Omani cuisine while overlooking the sea, was the perfect place for our needs. In this article, I’ll share our experience in Sur.

About Sur

The iconic lighthouse and dhow boats spread across Sur’s landscape

Sur is a historic port town located in the Ash Sharqiyah region of northeastern Oman. It once flourished as a key trading hub connecting the Arabian Peninsula with Africa and the Indian subcontinent, and remnants of this legacy can still be felt throughout the town. In particular, Sur’s iconic dhow boat shipyards are still active today, preserving the traditional wooden sailboat manufacturing techniques.

The atmosphere of the town is distinctly different from other cities in Oman. Unlike Muscat with its modern buildings, Sur features traditional white-walled houses and a leisurely pace of life. The townscape stretching along the coastline has a timeless charm that captivates visitors.

Sur’s Popular Dining Spot: Al Hawash Restaurant

Al Hawash Restaurant is a locally popular dining establishment located along the coast of Sur. Stepping inside, we found ourselves in a space where tradition and modernity blend seamlessly. The floor seating areas are covered with carpets, and the walls are decorated with motifs inspired by traditional Omani designs.

Floor seating where you can dine in the Arabian style, sitting cross-legged

This time, we were guided to table seating rather than floor seating. From the window-side tables, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the blue sea and white sandy beaches, creating a picturesque scene reminiscent of a postcard.

Modern atmosphere at the window-side table seating

Truly the best seat in Sur – you can see the lighthouse from the table

Captivating Traditional Omani Cuisine

Opening the menu, we found various Omani dishes on offer. To enjoy local flavors, we ordered several dishes recommended by Qusai, the Bedouin youth who accompanied us on this trip.

Rubyan Mashwi (left) and Fattoush (right)

1. Kabsa: Arabian-style Biryani

Kabsa is a fragrant rice dish widely enjoyed across the Arabian Peninsula. In Oman, it’s prepared by combining aromatic Basmati rice with chicken, lamb, or fish. The Kabsa at Al Hawash Restaurant featured tender slow-cooked lamb and rice seasoned with fragrant spices that created a perfect harmony. The raisins and nuts placed on top added sweetness and textural contrast to the dish.

2. Rubyan Mashwi: Grilled Prawns from Sur

Sur is famous as a fishing port with an abundance of fresh seafood. Rubyan Mashwi is a dish of large fresh prawns (likely jumbo prawns or king prawns) caught that day and grilled to perfection. The prawns are marinated in spices and grilled, resulting in a crispy, aromatic exterior and a juicy, firm texture inside. The natural sweetness and umami of the prawns are fully brought out, and when you squeeze the accompanying lemon, the refreshing acidity enhances the flavor even more. Slices of fresh tomato are served alongside, adding vibrant color. This dish allowed us to fully appreciate the bounty of Sur’s seas.

This restaurant specializes in dishes using freshly caught seafood from Sur

3. Fattoush: Levantine Salad

Fattoush is a refreshing salad widely enjoyed throughout the Middle East. The Fattoush at Al Hawash Restaurant was vibrant and appetizing. Crispy fried pita bread pieces harmonize perfectly with juicy vegetables. Fresh produce like tomatoes, cucumbers, and radishes are combined with herbs such as parsley and mint, creating a refreshing aroma.

Particularly impressive were the bright red pomegranate seeds. When you bite into them, they burst with a crunchy texture and sweet-sour flavor that spreads throughout your mouth, adding depth and complexity to the entire salad. Additionally, a dressing made with sumac spice brings everything together, creating a perfect balance of acidity and umami. This salad, with its refreshing taste yet full of nutrition, was perfect for Oman’s hot climate and gave our tired bodies new energy.

All these dishes had exquisite seasoning, giving us a sense of the depth of Omani cuisine. The use of spices was particularly impressive – not too intense, yet not lacking in flavor, achieving a perfect balance.

The presentation of the dishes was also beautiful, with thoughtful arrangements that were a feast for the eyes. The Kabsa was served on a large copper plate, garnished with colorful spices and herbs. Rubyan Mashwi featured prawns arranged in a radial pattern on a white plate, with lemon and tomato adding vibrant accents. The Fattoush was presented on an oval white plate with vivid colors, resembling a work of art.

Final Thoughts

Today, I’ve shared our food experience at Al Hawash Restaurant in the port town of Sur, Oman, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch overlooking the sea. In the next article, I’ll share our experience exploring the atmosphere of Sur outside the restaurant.