Under the sparkling Mediterranean sun, the labyrinthine alleys of Tunis’ old town (medina) weave an enchanting tapestry. The rooftops overlooking these streetscapes captivate the hearts of all who visit. However, in many rooftops crowded with tourists, it’s difficult to find true inspiration and relaxation. Today, I’d like to introduce you to an unforgettable afternoon spent at a hidden rooftop café known only to locals, away from all the hustle and bustle.
Tourist Traps and Morning Encounters
A medina tour led by a young guide who appeared as if by coincidence. While I ended up buying several expensive souvenirs, it was still an interesting experience.
Many tourists visiting Tunis’ old town experience the “recommended tours” by local guides. We were no exception. That morning, as soon as we entered the souk, we were approached by a young guide and, unable to refuse, ended up embarking on a guided tour.
“I’ll show you a magnificent view!”
The rooftop he led us to certainly offered a panoramic view of the cityscape. However, the journey there felt like a strategic maneuver. At the perfume shop, we were told about “special prices” and bought expensive perfume; at the carpet store, we were enthusiastically recommended “exclusive bargains” and ended up purchasing those too.
A rooftop where tourists come and go continuously
And the rooftop the guide took us to was overflowing with other tourists brought by their guides, making it impossible to peacefully enjoy the scenery. I later learned that this tactic of guides taking tourists around to various shops throughout town is very common in Tunis’ old town.
(Incidentally, despite purchasing various items, the young guide consistently refused to accept any tips from us. I wondered if this wasn’t purely about money, or if it was some personal principle of his—it was a curious experience. I’ll write about the guided tour in another article!)
An Unexpected Discovery
Walking through the souk in the middle of the old town
Somewhat exhausted from the hectic morning experience, we decided to stroll casually through the souk in the afternoon. While walking and gazing at shops displaying colorful lamps and handmade leather goods, a general store caught our eye. There were no flashy tourist-oriented products in sight; it had a nostalgic atmosphere, like a place where locals would shop for everyday items.
Upon entering the store, we noticed a staircase extending toward the back. The person who appeared to be the shop owner smiled kindly and said, “You may go up if you’d like.” With some hesitation, we decided to follow this invitation.
Climbing the narrow stairs upward
Journey to a Secret Space
A floor with looms and paintings
As we ascended the stairs, we realized that the building actually had a four-story structure. On the second floor, there was a small gallery space displaying works by local artists. Approaching the third floor, we encountered an even more unexpected sight: a space furnished with sophisticated furniture and beds, resembling a boutique hotel.
Even more luxurious bedding on the upper floor
“Is this… someone’s private bedroom?”
Just as such a confused thought nearly escaped my lips, a voice from below echoed, “Please, go all the way to the top floor.”
A Blissful Rooftop
An overwhelmingly open rooftop spread out before us!
After climbing the final staircase, a breathtaking view unfolded before us. Directly ahead stood the minaret of the Zitouna Mosque, a symbol of Tunis, surrounded by the buildings of the old town arranged like a geometric pattern.
The walls and floors of the café space were covered with tiles featuring traditional Tunisian patterns, captivating us with their beauty. Along the walls were benches with soft cushions, creating a natural ambiance as if they had always been there.
A Special Tea Time
We enjoyed mint tea and lemonade
The waiter brought us Tunisian-style mint tea. Fresh mint leaves danced like they were floating in the glass. What was particularly notable was the unique Tunisian twist: lightly roasted nuts floated on top, their subtle astringency creating a perfect harmony with the freshness of the mint.
Interestingly, even in the scorching summer heat, drinking hot tea is the Maghreb (North African) style.
Viewing the Old Town from a Different Perspective
The neighboring rooftop crowded with tourists
As we relaxed in the pleasant breeze, the rooftop of the adjacent building came into view. There, tourists led by guides, just like us in the morning, were hurriedly taking photos and moving on. While observing this scene, quietly enjoying our drinks, and listening to the Asr (afternoon) call to prayer echoing from afar, this contrast further highlighted the specialness of where we were now.
A rooftop offering the best view of the entire urban area, truly the finest seat in Tunis.
Final Thoughts
Beyond the standard tourist spots, such wonderful places are hidden in Tunis’ old town. This café, existing as if blending into the everyday lives of locals, is a special place that offers the essence of travel: an experience unique to that land.
Indeed, walking down alleys away from the main streets and ascending stairs from what appears to be an ordinary general store may require some courage. However, beyond that lies the genuine charm of Tunis that doesn’t appear in tourist guidebooks.
Travel memories are sometimes born from unplanned detours. When visiting Tunis, I encourage you to walk the city with plenty of time to spare and find your own special place. Surely, a luxurious time that can only be experienced there awaits you.
