The Glacier Express, known as the “world’s slowest express train.” After boarding the 7:52 AM train from Zermatt, what awaited us was a more luxurious 8-hour journey than we had imagined. As the onboard announcement proclaimed “The world’s slowest ‘fast’ train” and passengers couldn’t help but smile, this train would show us a leisurely flow of time despite bearing the name “express.”
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For detailed information about the boarding process and procedures for the Glacier Express, including luggage handling and station preparations, refer to our comprehensive boarding guide.
Onboard Environment
The interior feels spacious due to the glass ceiling
Settling into our 2nd class seats, the first thing we noticed was the surprising comfort. With seating comparable to high-speed trains, we felt confident about the long journey ahead. However, the train gradually filled to capacity. Cars that initially had many empty seats filled up with passengers boarding at intermediate stations.
Though full, the distance to neighboring passengers wasn’t too concerning
Despite our relatively last-minute booking, we were fortunate to secure window seats. During the journey, we realized how dramatically different the views are between window and aisle seats, despite paying the same price. While the interior felt chilly in the early morning, it gradually warmed up as the sun rose, with many passengers removing their jackets partway through. The reflection from the Alpine snow was stronger than expected, and we were truly grateful to have brought sunscreen.
The Ever-Changing Alpine Scenery
Immediately after departure, breathtaking views spread out from the train windows. In the morning mist, sunlight streaming from the Matterhorn’s peak gradually illuminated the mountainside. The light reflecting off the snow surface sparkled like scattered diamonds. This scenery drew spontaneous exclamations from passengers throughout the car.
While not taken from the train window, the Matterhorn bathed in morning and evening light showed different captivating expressions
Shortly after leaving Zermatt in the Matter Valley, you can enjoy the majestic Matterhorn from various angles illuminated by morning sun. Especially on the first train of the day, you can watch the Matterhorn’s expression change moment by moment as the mountainside is painted by sunrise.
As we approached Andermatt, the train entered a mountainous section with continuous steep gradients and sharp curves. From the train running along the valley, dynamic mountain scenery unfolds with vertically rising rock walls and deep valleys. The Rhine Gorge, nicknamed “Switzerland’s Grand Canyon,” is a magnificent valley. The deep V-shaped valley and white rock faces are impressive, with the blue Rhine River flowing at the bottom catching the eye. The unique terrain shaped by erosion is a landscape of high geological value.
A scenic viewpoint overlooking the town of Andermatt
Along the way, there are also lush green mountain streams
As we approached St. Moritz, one of the journey’s highlights awaited: the Landwasser Viaduct. The sight of the train crossing a bridge with six arches at a height of 65 meters before disappearing into a tunnel in the cliff is spectacular—a scenic point that could be called synonymous with the Glacier Express.
These highlights can be enjoyed almost equally from both left and right seats. Onboard announcements appropriately point out key spots, so as long as you keep your camera ready, you won’t miss anything. That said, there are differences depending on the time of day—mountain silhouettes are particularly clear in the morning and evening, while reflection from snow surfaces becomes stronger during the day. Since the train moves at a leisurely pace, you can take photos without worrying too much about shutter speed—a unique characteristic of this train.
The Constantly Changing Window Views and Passengers
Early morning interiors tend to have noticeable reflections
Immediately after departure, the car was filled with quiet excitement. Everyone held smartphones and cameras, absorbed in the ever-changing window scenery. While spectacular views can be enjoyed from both left and right seats, window reflections can be troublesome. However, as the sun climbed higher, reflections became less noticeable. Particularly impressive were the light streaming into deep valleys and the gleam of distant glaciers. Every moment presented picture-worthy scenery.
The changing behavior of passengers was interesting. After 2-3 hours from departure, perhaps growing tired of the scenery, more people gradually began using their smartphones or reading books. It was a scene that made us realize the length of 8 hours. Still, whenever the train passed scenic highlights, everyone would simultaneously raise their cameras without fail.
Onboard Facilities
The restrooms had a convenient system where availability could be checked from the seats. Digital displays showing icons were a reassuring feature for long-distance travel. However, there was an unexpected incident. Due to a baby feeling unwell from the motion, the restroom was unavailable for some time.
Not a dining car, but a bar car
We also tried to use the bar located between 1st and 2nd class, but it was closed until evening. It was a bit disappointing, but one of the new discoveries onboard.
Souvenirs are also displayed here
Luxurious Rest Times at Intermediate Stations
The train occasionally stops for quite extended periods. When stopped at mountain stations, cool, crisp air flows into the car. Many passengers took advantage of this time to step outside and enjoy the fresh air. Particularly memorable were Chinese tourists who went for smoking breaks at every stop. Since the train is completely non-smoking, stops are valuable smoking opportunities for smokers. We also checked departure times with the conductor and enjoyed brief walks.
During stops, you can temporarily disembark to breathe the outside air
The views of towns and mountains from station platforms have a different impact than window views. However, even with extended stops, there’s concern about being left behind, so we recommend always checking with the conductor. The kind conductor provided estimated departure times.
Photography Tips
As mentioned earlier, photography from windows is a battle against reflections. Especially in the morning when it’s dark outside, interior reflections are strong, so the trick is to position your lens as close to the window as possible. Also, the small windows between cars allow reflection-free photos, so visiting them during breaks is recommended. However, safety precautions are essential.
Rather than from your seat, extending your hand through the small windows between cars eliminates reflection concerns
Unexpected Delays Become Travel Memories
The Glacier Express frequently stops due to train coordination and passing arrangements. Moreover, these are unpredictable and can significantly impact the operating schedule. Our train ultimately experienced a 2-hour delay.
However, this unexpected event has become a good memory as an experience unique to leisurely mountain railway travel. Indeed, many passengers accepted this delay with laughter, joking about the “world’s slowest express train.”
Summary
While we felt some anxiety about the 8-hour length, the actual riding experience was more fulfilling than we had imagined. Certainly, there are times when you grow tired of the scenery. However, like the passengers who laughed at “The world’s slowest ‘fast’ train,” if you board with the mindset of enjoying this “slowness,” it will surely become a wonderful travel memory.
※In the next dining article, we’ll provide a detailed report about the onboard dining experience. Stay tuned!
For the continuation of this series covering the dining experience aboard the Glacier Express, including how the train transforms into a restaurant and detailed lunch course reports, look forward to our upcoming article.
