In the previous article, we introduced the Gaobei Tulou Cluster featuring Chengqi Lou, which holds the nickname “King of Tulou.” This time, as the conclusion of our two-day, one-night journey, we report on our visit to the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster, home to Zhencheng Lou, known as the “Prince of Tulou.” Personally, I prefer the deeper tulou clusters with only residents rather than well-developed tourist sites, but since we visited the “King,” it only makes sense to also meet the “Prince.”
Previous article is here
To Hongkeng Tulou Cluster
We drove from the Gaobei Tulou Cluster to the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster. According to Mr. He Chao, this is the most popular tulou cluster in the Yongding area, or even among all Fujian tulou. One reason seems to be that there’s a bus terminal nearby, making access from surrounding stations relatively easy. Therefore, there are many tourists, and among tulou clusters, this one gives the impression of being particularly well-developed.
The travel time from the Gaobei Tulou Cluster was about 15 minutes, but during the ride, we received a preliminary lecture about the history and highlights of the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster. He said there are many varieties here – circular and square buildings, large and small ones, old and new ones – so it would be enjoyable.
Tobacco Industry in Yongding Area and Hongkeng Tulou Cluster
Actually, the Yongding area, especially Hongkeng Village, is a traditional center for tobacco processing, and even today, small workshops still conduct hand-processing of tobacco leaves and manufacture tobacco cutters. We also saw scenes of tobacco leaves being sun-dried by the roadside.
The Lin clan who built Zhencheng Lou was exactly a family that made their fortune in this tobacco industry. Their grandfather Lin Zaiting and father Lin Renshan established a tobacco cutter factory in the 4th year of Qing Tongzhi (1865), manufacturing “Risheng” brand tobacco cutters. This almost monopolized the markets in China and Southeast Asian countries, bringing enormous profits.
“The techniques of tobacco craftspeople in the Yongding area have been passed down through generations, and they still make tobacco using traditional methods today,” said Mr. He Chao. In this area, it’s not uncommon for families to have tobacco workshops inside tulou. The reason the tobacco industry flourished is probably the combination of this region’s climate and soil being suitable for tobacco cultivation, along with the business acumen of the Hakka people. Indeed, around the Hongkeng and Gaobei tulou clusters, we still saw many tobacco craftspeople today. Their skilled handiwork shows the mastery of techniques passed down through generations, continuing traditions to the present day.
Overview and History of Hongkeng Tulou Cluster
The Hongkeng Tulou Cluster is located in Hongkeng Village on the northeast side of Hukeng Town, Yongding District, Longyan City, Fujian Province. It began at the end of the Song Dynasty and beginning of the Yuan Dynasty (13th century) when the Lin clan moved to this area and built Chongyu Lou and Nanchang Lou (both no longer exist).
Currently, the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster holds a leadership position among Yongding’s “Three Clusters and Two Buildings,” the main tourist attractions. There are 13 large-scale tulou built during the Ming Dynasty, including Fengsheng Lou and Yongyuan Lou, and 33 built during the Qing Dynasty, including Fuyu Lou, Kuiju Lou, Yanglin Lou, and Zhongzhu Lou. Other remaining structures include Tianhou Temple, Rixinxuetang, Lin Clan Ancestral Hall, and Guandi Temple, all built with raw earth.
Many attractions besides tulou. This is one of them, Tianhou Temple.
In July 2008, Fujian tulou including the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster were inscribed as a World Cultural Heritage Site, and in November 2009, they were designated as Fujian Province’s 7th provincial-level cultural relic protection unit. In September 2016, they became the first in Fujian Province to be selected for the national “Cultural Relic Fire Safety Hundred Projects,” advancing protection efforts.
Tourism at Hongkeng Tulou Cluster
Armed with the entrance ticket purchased at the Gaobei Tulou Cluster scenic area, we finally entered the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster. Upon passing through the entrance gate, a unique space where living space and tourist destination merged spread before us. However, the river flowing through the village center was muddy brown and couldn’t be called a clear stream.
According to what we were told, this isn’t water pollution but just soil flowing down from upstream mixing in. Indeed, it looked more like natural soil color rather than domestic wastewater.
Throughout the pathways, tea leaves and rice wine lees are dried everywhere, giving glimpses of daily life. Looking down at our feet, small grass grows from cracks in the stone pavement, showing unique vitality in the humid air.
We were told it would take at least 3 hours to see everything even at a quick pace, so we decided to tour efficiently around the Prince of Tulou. With a total of 46 tulou, it’s not realistic to see them all.
Near the entrance, a red traditional stage-like building catches the eye. It’s a magnificent building with bright vermillion columns and decorations. We were told this is a stage for traditional Hakka wedding ceremonies, and probably today or tomorrow, a wedding ceremony would be held here. Traditional weddings are still conducted in this region, and when the bride arrives at the groom’s house, welcoming songs and dances are performed on this stage.
Qingcheng Lou and Scenery Along the Way
The first stop, Qingcheng Lou, is a compact square tulou. Despite its modest exterior, the interior features exquisite wood carving decorations beyond imagination. Inside feels somewhat humid, with moss growing on the walls. This humidity and moss strangely enhance the atmosphere of the old tulou.
In the back, there’s a place for enshrining ancestors with a plaque reading “Yanyi Yimou.” This phrase means “leaving good plans for descendants.”
Leaving Qingcheng Lou, we proceed further into the tulou cluster. Along the road are small shops run by locals, including a brewery selling glutinous rice wine. The sight of amber-colored liquor bubbling in large plastic buckets was like a small museum. Hakka people love drinking this glutinous rice wine, especially in winter as an essential drink to warm the body.
Hakka people and glutinous rice wine have an inseparable relationship
They also sell fermented rice wine
As we walked and became thirsty, we discovered a shop selling sugarcane juice. Many tourists were lining up, making it seem like a popular store. Mr. He Chao recommended it, so we decided to try it.
In front of the shop was a special press machine. The shop owner quickly peeled the sugarcane skin and fed it into the machine. With creaking sounds, the sugarcane was crushed and yellow-green liquid flowed out. They poured it directly into a plastic bottle and handed it to us.
This juice, said to be exceptional because it’s freshly made, looked thick and rich yellow-green when I took a sip, but the taste was surprisingly refreshing. Don’t underestimate it as mere sugar water – along with intense sweetness, it had a good earthy flavor that permeated my tired body with deliciousness.
After drinking, your hands and mouth area inevitably become sticky
When I said “This is good when you’re tired,” I was told that especially during hot summer periods when physical strength is depleted, locals drink this to restore their energy. It’s truly nature’s energy drink born from wisdom.
Next Preview
Next time, we’ll introduce the detailed internal structure and features of Zhencheng Lou, the “Prince of Tulou” built by the Lin clan who made their fortune in the tobacco industry, as well as Kuiju Lou and Rusheng Lou located in the village’s interior.
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