Driving Taiwan’s most scenic Suhua Highway!
The Suhua Highway (Route 9) is the main artery connecting eastern Taiwan from north to south. This road, running between the Pacific Ocean and towering cliffs, was once called “Taiwan’s most dangerous road.” While the opening of new sections and safety improvements have made it popular as a scenic driving route, its ever-changing natural environment continues to keep drivers on edge.
Today, I’ll share my driving report of the Suhua Highway and the latest road conditions.
Important Pre-Departure Checks
Route 9 is already under constant maintenance due to earthquakes, and tends to be closed every time a typhoon passes through.
When planning the drive from Hualien north to Yilan, the most crucial aspect was checking road conditions. Route 9 is a delicate road that frequently closes due to weather conditions. Even light rain can cause closures, and failing to check beforehand can result in hours of being stranded. I continuously monitored the Highway Authority website from the day before departure for the latest information.
As of 2024, there are time restrictions on weekdays for the Heren to Chongde section (154.8 km to 165.7 km). The restricted hours are 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, during which passage is only allowed at designated time slots (10:00-10:20 AM, 12:00-1:00 PM, 3:00-3:20 PM). Not wanting to get caught in these restrictions, I chose an early morning departure.
Scenic Breakfast and Departure
Morning at a seaside hotel in Hualien. I brought takeout breakfast to the hotel’s rooftop terrace and quickly finished my meal. While I would have liked to relax, I needed to get the car moving before the restriction hours began, so I checked out early. I plan to detail this seaside hotel in a separate article, but choosing accommodations where you can start the day with the sunrise is essential for Hualien travel.
Fortunately, this day was clear. Road conditions were also problem-free.
I was ready to depart by just after 7 AM. Driving while watching the clock creates tension. Route 9 just before the 8 AM restriction was filled with more urgency than I had imagined. Cars constantly approached from behind. Every vehicle was rushing to pass before 8 AM, and the headlights in my rearview mirror heightened the anxiety.
Fortunately, I passed the Chongde checkpoint around 7:50 AM. From this experience, I recommend aiming to pass by 7:45 AM for early weekday departures. Just before 8 AM, other cars are also anxious, which can feel dangerous.
Taroko Bridge. Once you reach here, the Chongde checkpoint is just ahead.
By the way, there are two closure checkpoints – Chongde in the south and Heren in the north. For the northbound route, once you pass Chongde within the time limit, you can pass through Heren even during restricted hours.
Baptism by the Old Road (Route 9C)
After entering the Suhua Highway and heading north for a while, construction on the Zhongren Tunnel forced us to detour onto the old road (Route 9C). This is the notoriously dangerous cliff-edge old road. While this section appears short on the map, actually driving it revealed more thrills and tension than I had anticipated.
While stunning scenery spreads on both sides, there’s hardly time to enjoy the views
On the old road with continuous sharp curves, experienced local drivers race through corners like they’re in a racing competition. Oncoming traffic was surprisingly heavy, and I was startled repeatedly by cars suddenly appearing around curves. The deep blue Pacific should have been visible to the right, but I had to focus entirely on steering.
From the cliffs, you can see Hualien’s characteristic grayish beaches and the pale turquoise waters created by coral reefs
While I wanted to slow down, I was being pushed by following cars, yet the road was too dangerous to speed up. It was truly a no-win situation. One moment of steering error would mean plunging straight down the cliff. This tension would make even experienced drivers break into a sweat.
Breathtaking Scenery
Found a space where I could stop the car, so decided to take a breather
However, even amid this tension, encounters with wonderful scenery awaited. The occasional parking spaces were like oases. Stepping out of the car revealed breathtaking vistas.
Particularly impressive was Hualien’s ocean, divided into two layers due to coral reef influence. The contrast between light and dark blue was like a painting. This scenery alone makes driving the old road worthwhile. At several viewpoints along the way, I also enjoyed flying a drone for aerial photography. The contrast between the sheer cliffs and blue ocean, invisible from ground level, was spectacular.
A narrow road between steep cliffs and the ocean. The cliff-edge nature of the drive is clear from above.
Post-Typhoon Road Conditions
I drove this route just two days after a typhoon had passed. Indeed, typhoon damage was vividly visible throughout the road. While repair work had already begun, damaged sections of road and guardrails that had sunk toward the cliffs told the story of this road’s dangers.
Landslide scars are painfully visible in places. We owe a debt of gratitude to the workers who quickly repair the damage after each disaster.
The landslide scars were also striking. Soil and rocks not yet completely removed demonstrated the tremendous force of nature. The road had been completely closed until just two days before our passage. This emphasizes the constant need to check closure information.
For Safe Driving
The most important point when driving Route 9 is checking road information in advance. The Eastern Highway Authority (03-9982161) provides the latest closure information. Especially during rainy season or typhoon season, check not only the day before but also the latest information on the morning of travel.
This road has a high likelihood of closure even with light rain. Behind the wonderful scenery, natural threats constantly lurk. However, with proper preparation and understanding, you should be able to safely enjoy Taiwan’s premier scenic drive.
Sometimes you’ll encounter strict restrictions and things won’t go as planned. But adapting flexibly to each situation while enjoying encounters with spectacular scenery – that too might be part of the charm of Taiwan travel.
【Check road information here】
https://168.thb.gov.tw/thb168
