Kosupa Travel

Years ago, in a distant land, an unexpected heartwarming encounter awaited me during my travels. In Jakarta’s bustling and atmospheric Jalan Jaksa district, I met a local resident named Ayu. This story traces my memories of our meaningful connection.

While this story recounts events from many years ago and the information may not be current, I have specific reasons for sharing it now, which I’ll explain at the end.

Early March in Jakarta

One March, I found myself in Jakarta, Indonesia. Without a hotel reservation, I headed to Jalan Jaksa based solely on rumors of cheap accommodations in the area.

Needing just a place to sleep, I chose the first guesthouse I saw. At about $9 per day, the room was basic – a simple bed, cold-water shower, and barely functioning toilet. Yet it was sufficient and perfectly captured the essence of travel.

An Evening at the Pub

The guesthouse also operated a pub. That night, drawn by the lively atmosphere outside, I decided to visit.

There I met Ayu, a local Indonesian woman. She said she was just over 30, though she appeared closer to 50. She lived and worked in the area, and through our conversations, it became clear she worked in the local adult entertainment industry, likely seeking clients among travelers at the pub.

While I had no interest in such services, I was drawn to her friendly personality. She seemed to be looking for conversation as well, so we spent the evening chatting over drinks at the pub.

Growing Friendship

The next night, I found Ayu at the pub again. She greeted me warmly, as if she had been waiting. Somehow, in her mind, I had become her “boyfriend” – a notion I gently dismissed.

Still, her stories about local life were fascinating, and we enjoyed another evening of conversation over beer. That night, a generous Western traveler offered to buy drinks for everyone at the pub, so both Ayu and I indulged more than usual.

The next morning, nursing a hangover, I went to the pub for breakfast. Ayu arrived just then and, seeing me eating nasi goreng (fried rice), teased me about not knowing better local food. She went to a nearby food cart and brought back some local dishes for me to try. They were incredibly spicy but authentic, quite different from the tourist-friendly nasi goreng I was eating.

She explained that tourist food was both expensive and less tasty. Though this seemed awkward to say in front of the pub owner, I appreciated her kindness.

The pub occasionally hosted karaoke events. One night featured a keyboardist accompanied by a beautiful Indonesian underground singer performing what seemed like Indonesian pop ballads. The local crowd was enthusiastic, though I couldn’t join in as I didn’t know the songs.

When they invited audience participation, Ayu encouraged me to perform. Though reluctant, I went on stage. The karaoke machine had thousands of songs, but no Japanese ones. I chose “Let’s Groove” by Earth, Wind & Fire and gave it my all. The crowd’s warm response helped overcome my embarrassment, making it an unexpectedly enjoyable moment.

I spent about a week in Jakarta, based in Jalan Jaksa, enjoying such local interactions. Then came my final day.

Farewell and New Bonds

Throughout my stay, Ayu treated me as her boyfriend and visited the pub daily. She never once tried to solicit me for her “business,” treating me purely as a friend (or boyfriend). On my last day, when I told her I would be leaving for the airport that evening, she became tearful. A genuine friendship had formed between us.

Ayu said she wanted to give me something special and invited me to her home. It was a small one-room apartment just two minutes from the hotel. Upon arriving, she excused herself to take a shower – a common local habit, I learned, as Indonesians often shower multiple times daily.

After changing, Ayu took an old book from her shelf and presented it to me.

“This is the Quran I received from my late father,” she said. I was stunned. She had remembered my casual mention of wanting to read the Quran out of curiosity and decided to entrust me with this precious heirloom. Despite my protests about accepting such a meaningful item, she insisted.

Ayu couldn’t read Arabic, so she felt the Arabic Quran served no purpose for her. She wanted someone who expressed interest to have it and hopefully read it someday. Moved by her sincerity, I eventually accepted the gift.

After expressing my deep gratitude, I bid her farewell and headed to Soekarno-Hatta International Airport.

Present Day

More than ten years have passed, and I don’t know where Ayu is or what she’s doing. We exchanged emails after my return and corresponded about twice a year. Then suddenly, her replies stopped.

Concerned, when I visited Jakarta seven years later, I asked the pub owner about Ayu. He told me she had been rushed to the hospital with a serious illness and hadn’t been seen since.

I still send Ayu emails every year, hoping that someday she might respond, healthy and well.

Final Thoughts

That Jakarta trip ten years ago was my first solo international journey. Escaping personal difficulties at home, I had rushed to Jakarta alone. There, Ayu showed me kindness and opened my eyes to an fascinating world I hadn’t known existed.

She was more than a friend – she was a mentor of sorts. Though she may no longer be with us, if she is alive, I hope she somehow finds this blog and feels proud knowing that the young traveler she knew continues his journeys, enriched by her influence.

And that her father’s worn Quran still travels with him in his backpack.