Tasting Mandi Head Meat in Jeddah’s Al Balad: A Traditional Local Meal at Baissa Mandi Meat [Saudi Arabia Food Travel]

Jeddah (also known as Jiddah) is a city facing the Red Sea in Saudi Arabia. Its historic district, Al Balad, has a unique atmosphere created by narrow alleyways and old buildings, giving visitors the sensation of traveling back in time. I visited “Baissa Mandi Meat,” a well-established local restaurant popular among locals in Al Balad, and tried their “Ras Mandi,” a goat head meat dish. I’m excited to share my food report with you!

Ras Mandi: Roasted Goat Head

Ras Mandi (رأس مندي) is one of Saudi Arabia’s traditional dishes, a hearty meal featuring a goat head slowly roasted over charcoal.

Ras Mandi is characterized by goat head meat that’s so tender from slow cooking at low temperatures that it falls apart easily, and it’s rich in fat. While Mandi is typically served over fragrant rice, Ras Mandi is often eaten as a standalone dish. At the restaurant I visited, the Ras Mandi was boldly served directly on a silver platter glistening with oil.

A Long-established Mandi Restaurant in Jeddah’s Old City

Jeddah has flourished as an important trading port since ancient times and is still visited by many pilgrims today. As a result, it’s known for its rich food culture that has developed through the mixing of diverse cultures and cuisines. The Al Balad district is characterized by narrow alleys and white-walled buildings, with small local eateries and food stalls scattered among the historical structures.

I learned about “Baissa Mandi Meat,” the long-established Ras Mandi restaurant in Al Balad, through word of mouth from local residents. Baissa Mandi Meat serves only one dish – Ras Mandi – but it’s apparently quite popular, which explains how it has continued to satisfy the discerning palates of Al Balad for decades.

They usually sell out by mid-morning. (I visited in the afternoon, but luckily they hadn’t sold out that day, so I was fortunate to try it.) Although the restaurant was in a somewhat complex location and difficult to find, the sign read “باعيسى (Baissa)” in Arabic, and the savory aroma wafting from the storefront helped me locate it without too much trouble.

Stepping inside, the interior was sparse, resembling a butcher shop. The counter was lined with pots, cutting boards, and impressive knives, indicating that goat heads are butchered here every morning. When I nervously told the initially stern-looking owner that I had come to eat Ras Mandi, he smiled broadly and guided me to the dining area at the back of the shop.

Sizzling Goat Head Meat

Amid the lively atmosphere of the restaurant, the Ras Mandi was taken out of a rugged warming cabinet and impressively served on a silver platter, spattering oil as it arrived before me. The savory aroma wafting from it instantly stimulated my appetite. You need to eat the meat by tearing it with your hands in local style, but it’s initially too hot to touch. You can adjust the seasoning to your taste with salt and pepper on the table, as well as the mysterious sauce served as a side.

I also enjoyed hobz (Arabic bread) and shishito peppers with my Ras Mandi. Using the hobz, I managed to grab some of the piping hot Ras Mandi that was too hot to touch with my fingers and brought it to my mouth.

With the first bite, I felt the texture of the meat that had been slow-cooked at low temperature, falling apart easily. Rich in fat, it melts in your mouth. One of the charms of head meat is that you can enjoy different textures and flavors from different parts. The cheek meat is particularly tender, giving you the ultimate luxury of juices flooding your mouth. Inside the dome of the skull, the brain is densely packed, offering a rich taste that’s packed with protein. The unique flavor distinctive to goat head meat provides a special experience that can’t be found elsewhere. Despite the simple seasoning of just salt and pepper, the umami of the ingredients stands out, giving deep satisfaction. The hobz and shishito peppers served as sides provided a nice accent and enhanced the meal.

Along with the Scenery of Al Balad

After finishing my meal and stepping outside, the cityscape of Al Balad was beautifully illuminated as the day began to fade. The soft light of dusk gently enveloped the white-walled buildings and cobblestone alleys. The lingering taste of goat head meat, enjoyed amidst this urban landscape, left a deep impression on my heart. Dining at Baissa Mandi Meat wasn’t just a meal; it was a special experience of savoring Jeddah’s history and culture with all five senses. If you have the chance to visit Jeddah, try experiencing this traditional taste at this restaurant.

Next time, I’ll introduce another long-established local restaurant in Al Balad. Stay tuned!

Next article is available here:

Tasting 100-Year-Old Arabic Bread ‘Khobz’ at Jeddah’s Oldest Bakery in Al Balad [Saudi Arabia Food Tour]