[Fujian Tulou at Night] Midnight Stroll to a Scenic Viewpoint Overlooking Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster – Stay Experience Part 4

In the previous article, I shared my experience checking into Wenchang Lou in the UNESCO World Heritage Tianluokeng Tulou cluster and exploring the five Tulou buildings. Tonight, after a resident told me “the view from the observation deck is beautiful at night,” I decided to venture out for an evening stroll.

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[Exploring Fujian Tulou] Touring the Five Tulou of Tianluokeng Cluster – Staying Experience (Part 3)

The Path Blending Old and New Tulou Buildings

Leaving Wenchang Lou and heading up the slope toward the observation deck, I noticed several relatively new buildings illuminated by street lights. Besides the five Tulou known as “Four Dishes and One Soup,” this area is dotted with accommodations, restaurants, and glutinous rice wine shops.

What caught my eye were the numerous modernly renovated guesthouses. Having been remodeled from old buildings, they maintain the Tulou aesthetic while emphasizing comfort. Although I chose to stay at Wenchang Lou for an authentic Tulou living experience, these guesthouses would be attractive options for those who want to enjoy the World Heritage atmosphere but feel uncertain about staying in an ancient building.

The Challenge of 300 Steps

I chose the eastern path to the observation deck. This road, bustling with tourists during the day, transforms at night. With no street lights, I navigated the narrow mountain path guided only by the warm glow spilling from the Tulou buildings and the moonlight.

While I climbed the first 50 steps with enthusiasm, the fatigue in my legs from the day’s touring quickly returned. The stone steps through the bamboo forest blocked even the moonlight, making it difficult to see where I was stepping. I had to check each step carefully as I climbed, with only the rustling sound of bamboo leaves accompanying my heavy breathing.

After passing the 100th step, I sat down on the stone stairs for a rest. Looking back, the gentle lights from the Tulou cluster seemed to encourage me, as if saying, “just a little more.” I had already removed my jacket due to the heat, but sweat continued to pour from my forehead. By the time I passed the 200th step, my legs felt like wooden posts. But having come this far, there was no turning back. The occasional evening breeze was refreshing, gently pushing me forward as I gradually gained altitude.

VIP Seats from an Empty Observation Deck

After about 10 minutes of struggle, I finally reached the observation deck. This spot, which has ticket checks during the day, was completely deserted at night. The tourists had long gone, and only Tulou residents and overnight guests remained in the area. The breath taken away by the 300 steps was instantly forgotten when I saw the view before me.

The view from the silent observation deck was truly breathtaking. The five Tulou buildings known as “Four Dishes and One Soup” were outlined by gentle light, looking like celestial palaces. The lights of residents’ daily lives breathed warm vitality into these structures that have endured through the ages.

Return Journey via the Western Field Path

For the return trip, a sense of adventure led me to choose a different route along the west side. I thought it would be manageable now that my eyes had adjusted to the darkness. Unlike the eastern bamboo forest, this path had open fields on both sides. There was no light source except the moonlight, but I slowly descended the stone steps, using the lights of the Tulou buildings as my guide.

When I revisited these fields early the next morning, I found local farmers diligently working. The vegetables grown here are sold inside the Tulou or used as ingredients in restaurants.

In the morning, from this western path, I could also see the Kongtou village located south of the Tianluokeng Tulou cluster. While it doesn’t have the famous Tulou registered as World Heritage sites, its small circular and square Tulou buildings and “Five Phoenix” structures dotted throughout the village were quite charming. It offered a glimpse of Tulou living and breathing in everyday life, different from the touristy atmosphere of Tianluokeng.

However, at that moment, I couldn’t yet imagine these morning scenes. There was only the Tulou cluster standing quietly beyond the moonlit fields. Listening to the sound of crop leaves rustling in the night breeze, I couldn’t help but reflect on the lifestyle the Hakka people have passed down through generations.

According to a resident, the lights-out time in the Tulou is 11:30 PM. Even this magical night view has a time limit. Upon hearing this, I hurried back to Wenchang Lou. Despite my aching legs, the satisfaction of witnessing this special nightscape made the pain bearable.

What Did You Think?

The Tianluokeng Tulou cluster is full of unique charm beyond just the five Tulou buildings. In the next article, I’ll share my experience with the living conditions at Wenchang Lou until the following morning. I look forward to reporting in detail about my battles with toilets and showers, heartwarming interactions with residents, and other aspects of this special night spent at a World Heritage site.

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[Living Hakka Style] 2 Days, 1 Night at Wenchang Lou – Experiencing Daily Life Inside a Fujian Tulou (Part 5)