In our previous article, we introduced the internal structure and features of Zhencheng Lou, known as the “Prince of Tulou.” This time, we bring you the final chapter of our tulou tour series, exploring more highlights of the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster and the conclusion of our two-day, one-night journey.
Deeper into the Village: Kuiju Lou and Rusheng Lou
Overwhelmed by the grandeur of Zhencheng Lou, we continued deeper into the village. Following the path, Kuiju Lou came into view. This palace-style rectangular large tulou has a majestic appearance reminiscent of the Potala Palace when viewed from a distance.
Kuiju Lou was begun by the Lin family in the 14th year of the Qing Dynasty’s Daoguang era (1834) and completed after about 5 years of construction. It covers an area of over 6,000 square meters and stands about 15 meters high. It features a distinctive structure with a high central hall and lower wings on both sides.
When viewed from high above, the building and the mountain ridge behind it form a unified shape resembling a fierce tiger descending the mountain, with Kuiju Lou representing the “tiger’s head.” When our guide He Chao pointed to the landscape, it indeed looked like a large tiger coming down the mountain. This was designed based on the geographical feature known as “tiger form.” The designer was Wu Yifu, a Hanlin scholar and sworn brother of the building’s owner Lin Kuiyang.
The Ruined Tulou Occupied by Chickens
Along the way, we also entered an unnamed tulou, which was inhabited by numerous chickens with no residents present—it was in a state of ruin. The ground was scattered with chicken feathers and droppings, and parts of the walls were crumbling. He Chao explained with a laugh that this tulou had been abandoned and taken over by chickens. Indeed, the chickens strutted through the tulou as if they owned the place, like new masters. Personally, I find these ruined tulou more intriguing than the commercialized ones lined with souvenir shops.
We also visited Fuyu Lou. Construction began by the Lin family in the 6th year of the Qing Dynasty’s Guangxu era (1880), costing over 100,000 silver dollars and taking 3 years to complete. It’s a representative work of Yongding Prefecture-style tulou, covering an area of over 7,000 square meters. The building has three main gates in front, with small gates separating the main building from the side buildings. While the exterior appears unified, the interior is divided into three large sections.
This is said to hide the meaning of “three mountains” representing the three brothers who owned the building. Indeed, it’s fascinating to discover that the tulou’s shape represents three mountains.
The Miniature Tulou “Rusheng Lou”
In the Hongkeng Tulou Cluster, the most impressive after the Prince of Tulou was Rusheng Lou, located in the deepest part of the village. In the 27th year of the Qing Dynasty’s Guangxu era (1901), the building owner Lin Gaolin originally lacked sufficient housing, but one night he had a dream. He dreamed of a red sun setting in Hongkeng Village. Lin Gaolin judged that it would be good to build a house in this location, so he gathered funds, personally carried soil as labor, and completed Rusheng Lou after 3 years of work.
Rusheng Lou, known as the smallest tulou in the Yongding area
Among the numerous tulou in Yongding, this is an elegant circular tulou, also called “Rice Measure Lou” (a rice measure was an ancient grain measuring tool). With a circumference of only 56.6 meters and a diameter of 18.2 meters, it has a single-ring structure. The interior courtyard is circular, the inner edge of the roof tiles is octagonal, and the outer edge is circular. Indeed, both in size and shape, it closely resembles the grain measuring tool called “sheng” (measure). “Like a measure” is a fitting description.
The name “Rusheng Lou” also carries the deep meaning of “like the rising sun,” symbolizing brightness for thousands of years. Many tourists call it the “Pocket Tulou” (Miniature Tulou) due to its small stature.
End of the Journey
After completing our tour, on the way back to the ticket center, we noticed a tulou-shaped Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) store. The round building had a large Colonel Sanders face painted on its wall, creating a bizarre scene where traditional tulou merged with a fast food restaurant, bringing smiles to our faces.
Tulou-style KFC
This is like the tulou version of how all convenience stores in Kyoto are brown-colored. This is a special design unique to this region. It was an interesting sight where tradition and modernity merged.
Afterwards, we went to Taxia Village for a meal. We enjoyed traditional Hakka cuisine at a local restaurant. Particularly impressive were the dishes made with locally raised chicken and stir-fried mountain vegetables. Though simple, they had deep flavors that helped heal our travel fatigue. We plan to provide a detailed report on local tulou cuisine and Hakka food in a separate article.
After the meal, He Chao drove us to Nanjing Station in the evening, and our two-day, one-night journey came to an end. Since there was time before the high-speed train departure, we ended up having tea at his office.
Over Tea
The office was a small but well-organized, clean space with maps of the surrounding area displayed on the walls. He Chao carefully prepared tea and served traditional tea snacks from the Yongding region. The small cookie-like sweets with modest sweetness paired perfectly with the tea.
During our conversation, we learned that this 30-year-old entrepreneur had purchased 12 vehicles, taken the plunge into starting his own business, and established this transportation company. It was difficult at first, but his strong desire to let many people know about the local tulou kept him going.
The tulou cluster tour guided by him provided a deep experience that included not just the commercialized parts, but also the daily life, culture, and historical background of local people. Watching him interact casually with his employees, you could sense his good character.
His smile when he said “Please contact me when you come to Fujian again” at parting was memorable. He Chao, who showed us the greatest hospitality during this trip, made us want to wholeheartedly support him.
As a side note, Nanjing High-Speed Railway Station is also designed with tulou motifs and has an elliptical structure
Summary
Despite the short time of just two days and one night, this journey allowed us to efficiently tour numerous tulou clusters in Nanjing and Yongding, deeply understanding their diverse architectural styles and cultural backgrounds. This wouldn’t have been possible without meeting He Chao.
For those considering a trip to Fujian Tulou, we highly recommend the style of taking the train from Xiamen to Nanjing, then efficiently touring the tulou clusters by chartered car from there. It offers excellent cost-performance and time-efficiency, with the appeal of being able to thoroughly explore each tulou at your own pace.
While Fujian Tulou is still not well-known among international travelers, its unique architectural style and cultural value make it a World Heritage site worth visiting. The tulou clusters, which condense the wisdom of medieval China and the aesthetic sensibility of the Hakka people, will surely leave deep impressions in your heart.
