
Xi’an, with direct flights from Japan. This city boasts a unique food culture befitting its role as a Silk Road hub.
If you visit Xi’an, there’s an absolutely unmissable experience waiting for you. That is tasting the legendary noodle dish “Biangbiang Noodles (biángbiáng miàn)” that has been beloved by locals for generations. This encounter with these noodles will be the ultimate way to experience Xi’an’s history and culture through your taste buds.
The Mysterious “Untyped” Chinese Character Noodles

What first surprises you is the name itself. The Chinese character “biang” boasts an astounding 58 strokes, making it one of the most complex characters in the Chinese language. In fact, this character is not currently supported by Unicode and is known as an “unwritable character” even in the digital world. Therefore, even Chinese people commonly use pinyin input “biangbiang” when typing on smartphones.

There are almost no fonts that can display the character “biang,” making notation quite challenging.
There are various theories about the origin of the name, but an interesting one suggests it was named after the “biang!” sound that echoes when beating the noodles. It’s truly a name where sound and food have merged.
Belt-Wide Thick Noodles and the Appeal of Artisan Craftsmanship

Walking through the ancient city of Xi’an, you’ll often spot shops displaying “Biangbiang Noodles” signs in alleyways and market corners. There are probably more of these than convenience stores. Among them, the dining halls that locals frequent daily are the places where you can savor authentic flavors.
Upon entering a shop, you hear the “biang! biang!” sounds echoing from the kitchen. These are the sounds of skilled artisans stretching and beating lumps of wheat flour. The finished noodles have a tremendous visual impact. This thickness brings volume to a single bowl of noodles.
Originally starting as a simple home-cooked dish, modern Biangbiang noodles have evolved as each shop tends to add abundant ingredients to increase value. With toppings like lamb, beef, tofu, and various vegetables, it can hardly be called “poor people’s food” given its luxurious appearance. Prices range from about 500-900 yen (approximately 20-40 yuan) per bowl, making it relatively expensive among Chinese noodle dishes. Prices tend to be higher around tourist areas, so caution is needed.
Tasting Report: At a Specialty Shop Near the Bell Tower

At Lao Li’s Family restaurant near the Bell Tower
I tried eating dinner at a Biangbiang noodle specialty shop near Xi’an’s iconic “Bell Tower.” The interior was bustling with local customers, full of energy.

I was amazed when I saw the noodles that arrived after ordering. As expected of handmade noodles, the width was uneven! The narrow parts were about 4 centimeters, while the thick parts were an incredible 8 centimeters! This unevenness is proof of hand-pulled noodles and creates a charm that machine-made noodles could never produce. As the noodle width changes, so does the texture, allowing you to enjoy various flavors within a single bowl.

This is authentic Biangbiang noodles.

The uneven thickness of the noodles is proof of hand-pulling.
The noodles are topped with a special sauce combining chili peppers, Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, vinegar, and soy sauce, and finally hot oil is poured over with a sizzling sound. This cooking method is called “You Po La Zi (油潑辣子).”
Despite its flashy appearance, it’s surprisingly not extremely spicy. Rather, the balance of spiciness, acidity, and garlic is exquisite, making it enjoyable even for those who can’t handle spicy food. You can adjust the spiciness to your preference by adding chili oil as desired.
With one slurp, the chewy texture of the noodles and complex flavors spread throughout your mouth. The thickness of the noodles provides sufficient chewiness, making it a simple yet satisfying dish.
Around the Terracotta Army: The Temptation of Beating Performances

Around Xi’an’s greatest tourist attraction, the “Terracotta Army,” there are also many Biangbiang noodle shops. Particularly impressive is the performance of noodle artisans beating wheat flour dough with “biang! biang!” sounds in front of the shops. The sight is spectacular and makes you stop in your tracks.

The sound of beating the strong Biangbiang dough can be clearly heard from 100 meters away
Actually, I was lured by this performance and ended up getting takeout, which turned out to be surprisingly good. By eating it while hot, you can enjoy the noodle texture and aroma to the fullest. Being able to easily experience authentic flavors between sightseeing is precious.

This version featured a two-color presentation mixed with green spinach noodles (bo cai mian). Each shop’s individuality really shines through.
However, tourist area pricing is unavoidable in the Terracotta Army area, so be prepared for slightly higher prices than in the city center. Even so, the experience of watching artisan techniques up close while healing from the fatigue of exploring the Terracotta Army is worth more than the price.
Historical Background: A Relatively New Xi’an Flavor
Biangbiang noodles are not part of “five thousand years of Chinese cuisine” but are actually considered a relatively new dish. This noodle dish, which developed in rural areas around Xi’an, is believed to have originated about 200-300 years ago, making it a relative newcomer to Shaanxi Province’s food culture.
However, despite this short history, Biangbiang noodles have become representative of Xi’an’s food culture and are now spreading throughout China and even to the world. In fact, many people know that there are several Biangbiang noodle shops in Yokohama and Nihonbashi in Japan. For the people of Xi’an, perhaps the true value of these noodles lies not in their historical length but in their familiarity rooted in daily life.
Conclusion
Biangbiang noodles are more than just a noodle dish. Their unique name, the uneven thick noodles created by artisan techniques, and the abundant ingredients with complex flavors all reflect the richness of Xi’an’s food culture.
Perhaps because their history is relatively new, they are filled with the vitality of modern food culture. The irregularity of hand-pulled noodles and the rich variety of ingredients that differ from shop to shop are proof that this dish continues to evolve.
The next time you have the opportunity to visit Xi’an, don’t just tour the tourist attractions—embark on a Biangbiang noodle journey. Why not experience Xi’an’s living food culture while savoring the stories embedded in each and every bite?