A full moon hung in the night sky over Kampala, Uganda’s capital. As the city’s bustle began to quiet, I made my way to the Mash Poa bus terminal. I was about to board an overnight express bus to Kigali, Rwanda’s capital. Waiting for the bus’s arrival, I felt both excitement and slight apprehension about the journey that would take me across African borders through the night.
What is Mash Poa Express Bus?
Mash Poa is a bus company operating long-distance routes throughout East Africa. Though relatively new, it has gained a reputation for providing safe and comfortable services. The Kampala-Kigali route I was taking departs Kampala at 11:30 PM and is scheduled to arrive in Kigali around 8:00 AM the next morning.
Booking Tickets at the Local Counter
While online booking is possible, I chose to book my seat directly at the terminal due to concerns about fake websites and varying seat layouts that can change without notice. Fortunately, the bus terminal was within walking distance of my hotel in central Kampala, allowing me to visit and book my ticket the day before departure.
Booking a “VIP Seat” for Independent Travel
After presenting my passport, I purchased my Kampala-Kigali ticket at the counter. The fare was 40,000 Ugandan Shillings (approximately $15 USD at the time).
For security reasons, I opted for an independent “VIP Seat” rather than a shared seat. I had heard that shared seating arrangements sometimes led to issues with luggage security.
Boarding the Night Bus
On the day of departure, I arrived at the bus terminal at the designated time. While waiting to board, passengers spent their time buying drinks from vending machines, having light snacks, or browsing daily necessities. After waiting in the departure area for a while, our bus arrived, decorated with the flags of Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda. Passengers boarded in order, showing their tickets.
A Sleepless Night of Rough Roads and Vibrations
As the bus began its journey, the African landscape stretched out before us, illuminated by the full moon. However, there was little time to enjoy the scenery as accumulated travel fatigue set in. Despite my exhaustion, sleep proved impossible due to the rough roads, constant vibration, and animated conversations among local passengers.
Approaching the Border
Around 6 AM, we reached the Rwandan border. All passengers disembarked and waited in a holding area for several minutes. This was followed by passport verification and baggage inspection by security personnel. The process took considerable time as the luggage of all 30+ passengers had to be manually checked.
Meeting the Local Money Changer
After the inspection and passport stamping, completing entry into Rwanda, a local Rwandan approached offering to exchange US dollars for Rwandan francs. Though an unofficial money changer, the exchange rate was surprisingly good, so I exchanged about $200.
Arrival in Kigali
Back on the bus, we continued through Rwanda, with lush green landscapes visible through the windows. After another hour of travel, we finally arrived in Kigali just after 9 AM. Though we were significantly behind schedule, we had successfully completed the cross-border journey.
Final Thoughts
The sleepless night on rough roads, the encounter with the money changer at the border, and the verdant Rwandan landscape all left lasting impressions on me. These experiences unique to African travel are now deeply etched in my memory.
Taking an overnight bus from Uganda to Rwanda is an effective option for travelers looking to save time and money. However, there are several considerations to keep in mind: rough roads, time lost to border procedures, and the general discomfort of overnight bus travel. If you’re planning to use this service, thorough preparation is recommended.
One final note: an overnight bus journey is more than just transportation – it’s an adventure, a discovery, and perhaps an opportunity for personal growth.
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