In the previous article, we introduced using chartered cars as an efficient means of transportation for touring Fujian Tulou. This time, we’ll report on the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster, which was the first destination of that itinerary. This was the most crowded tulou cluster I visited among all the tulou groups, and it was particularly popular with Chinese tourists.
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What is the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster?
Yunshui Yao is particularly popular due to its scenic beauty
The Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster is a World Heritage tulou group located in Nanjing County, Fujian Province. It’s known for its landscape centered around two massive tulou, “Huaiyuan Lou” and “Hegui Lou,” with other tulou scattered in the surrounding area. What’s particularly noteworthy is not just the tulou themselves, but the harmonious landscape with riverside scenery featuring water wheels, truly evaluated as a symbol of China’s traditional rural landscape.
Overwhelming Popularity in China
One reason the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster is particularly popular with Chinese tourists is that it was used as a filming location for the Chinese TV drama “Yunshui Yao.” The atmosphere created by traditional architecture and beautiful natural scenery seems to have been ideal as a drama setting. As a result, many Chinese tourists, especially younger generations, visit here.
Incidentally, the movie version of the same work features Vivian Hsu, who is well-known internationally.
Visit Report
When touring the tulou clusters in the Yongding area, we first needed to purchase entrance tickets at a ticket center located some distance from the tulou clusters before arriving. It would be nice if there was a system to purchase tickets on-site. This is because the development as a tourist destination is still in progress. Detailed information about the specific purchase methods is explained in a separate article.
When we arrived on-site, the first thing that surprised me was the number of tourists, which exceeded my expectations. Compared to other tulou clusters, Yunshui Yao had overwhelmingly more tourists, and almost all of them were Chinese tourists. When I visited, I hardly saw any foreign tourists other than myself.
Quite crowded with tourists even on a weekday!
The interior of the tulou cluster is completely developed as a tourist destination, with guesthouses, restaurants, souvenir shops, and street stalls lined up. What was particularly impressive was the sight of young people and elderly visitors taking photos with the riverside water wheels as a backdrop. However, while such tourist development has progressed, people still actually live in the tulou, creating a unique space where tourism and daily life coexist.
Many restaurants and guesthouses are also located within the premises
Was this stone path a filming location for the drama? It was particularly bustling.
Many symbolic attractions besides tulou, such as water wheels
Main Tulou Highlights
Huaiyuan Lou
Huaiyuan Lou is the representative tulou of the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster, and its magnificent appearance overwhelms visitors. The interior decoration reminiscent of scenes from the animated movie “Big Fish & Begonia” is also characteristic. People still actually live here, with the first floor used as residents’ kitchens and the third and fourth floors as bedrooms. On the first floor, metal magnets with “Big Fish & Begonia” motifs are also sold at reasonable prices (7.5 yuan) and are popular as souvenirs.
Inside the large tulou, there are active residents. A strong sense of daily life remains.
Many souvenir shops line the first floor of the tulou, selling tulou-themed magnets, ashtrays, and other small items.
Various teas from Fujian Province
Hegui Lou
Unlike Huaiyuan Lou, Hegui Lou is a square tulou built on swampland. The internal structure is similar to Huaiyuan Lou, but what’s particularly noteworthy is that there’s swampland enclosed within part of the building, demonstrating the high level of construction technology of that time. Opposite is a vast lotus pond where you can enjoy beautiful lotus flowers when in season.
Moss-covered swampland in the center of the tulou
Water seeps underfoot. The real charm of a tulou built on swampland.
This tulou is also full of daily life despite being a tourist destination. You can feel the residents’ presence.
Other Attractions
There are plenty of attractions besides the tulou. When you go inward from Huaiyuan Lou, there’s a giant banyan tree said to be 800 years old. Near it is the “Yunshui Yao Stone,” which serves as an excellent photo spot offering panoramic views of water wheels, couple trees, and ancient town scenery. Within the ancient town, there are seven more old banyan trees, making a total of eight banyan trees you can see.
The scenic view across the clear river stimulates the traveling spirit
There’s also a temple called Jifu Temple, whose colorfully decorated dragon roof displays magnificent artistry.
Local Enjoyment
Tulou rice restaurant near the ticket center
Actually, before heading to the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster, we stopped at a local restaurant near the Nanjing ticket center on Mr. He Chao’s recommendation. He advised us that restaurants within the tulou clusters have tourist prices and aren’t necessarily good value, so we should enjoy authentic flavors at establishments frequented by locals. Here we savored regional specialties like guangyu (a type of catfish) and green vegetables.
Before cooking, they showed us the lively jumping guangyu fish.
Touring the tulou cluster itself takes about 2 hours. Since there are many slippery stone pavements along the pathways, wearing non-slip athletic shoes is recommended. This region is also known as a tea-producing area, with street stalls selling tea leaves and local specialties lining the roads.
There are also many restaurants within the scenic area
About Nighttime Yunshui Yao
According to Mr. He Chao, the Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster is illuminated at night and is popular as a night view spot. Probably, the scenic landscape that was also used as a drama filming location creates an even more romantic atmosphere through illumination.
However, this time, considering the daytime crowds and personally wanting to experience the original appearance of tulou and local life rather than flashy illumination, I chose the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster as our accommodation. The Chinese expression of “gorgeous” can sometimes be overly decorative, so I’m curious about what kind of atmosphere Yunshui Yao’s night view actually has. It might be a unique charm specific to the touristified Yunshui Yao.
Summary
Besides the two tulou introduced, Yunshui Yao has many large tulou lined up. If you look around carefully, it takes more than 2 hours!
The Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster has progressed in development as a tourist destination, but within that bustle, the original appearance of tulou and people’s lives still breathe. The landscape where various elements such as tulou, ancient trees, water wheels, and river scenery harmonize is certainly attractive.
Next time, we’ll convey the quieter charm of tulou through our afternoon visits to Shunyu Lou and Hehong Tulou Cluster on that day.
