In the previous article, we introduced the bustling Yunshui Yao Tulou Cluster crowded with tourists. This time, we report on our visits to Shunyu Lou and Hehong Tulou Cluster, which have a quieter atmosphere and are located further along by car in a counterclockwise direction from there.
Previous article is here
The Largest Circular Tulou: Shunyu Lou
Shunyu Lou, called the world’s largest tulou
Located in Shiqiao Village, Shuyang Town, Nanjing County, Fujian Province, Shunyu Lou is a massive circular tulou built in 1927. Boasting an outer diameter of 73.9 meters and inner diameter of 70.84 meters, it has 72 rooms per floor across 4 floors for a total of 288 rooms, plus an additional 81 rooms inside, making it one of the world’s largest tulou with 369 rooms total. In September 2016, it was recognized by Guinness World Records as the “single-story corridor-style circular tulou with the most rooms in the world.”
Located with “mountains behind and water in front” (a principle of feng shui), this massive architecture nicknamed “King of Kings” has a vast site area of 4,977.97 square meters.
Massive Architecture Wrapped in Silence
The vast interior somehow feels a bit lonely?
In stark contrast to the bustle of Yunshui Yao, Shunyu Lou was surprisingly quiet when we visited. Since it’s an undeveloped tulou in its natural state rather than a tourist destination, there were no tourists at all, and according to Mr. He Chao, the resident population has been gradually decreasing, leading to depopulation.
Laundry is hanging out to dry, so there are still active residents
Many tulou have wells or buildings called “xuanlou” or “zutang” arranged in the center of their courtyards, but in Shunyu Lou’s case, perhaps reflecting its vast site, the center spreads out as an undeveloped field-like space. In that square, chickens who had become the tulou’s new “residents” were impressively strutting around freely. I remember laughing with Mr. He Chao, saying “This tulou seems to have been completely taken over by chickens.”
Chickens strutting around the tulou interior as if they own the place
Since tourist development hasn’t progressed, there are no souvenir shops at all. However, this allows you to thoroughly appreciate the original appearance of the tulou.
There are supposedly some restaurants and guesthouses. However, spending the night here might be a bit lonely?
While Yunshui Yao had souvenir shops spread across the first floor, here the first floor is also living space. It feels good to see the original appearance of tulou.
Since we were there anyway, I asked a local resident and decided to photograph the building’s entire structure from above. However, the building was so massive that I had to raise the aircraft to just below the altitude limit to finally capture the whole structure. The aerial view further highlighted the magnificent scale of this architecture.
Too large to easily capture the full view
Looking down from above, you’re even more amazed by its special structure.
During filming, an elderly resident appeared from somewhere and began her daily household chores as if it were her routine. Seeing daily life carried out alongside chickens running freely gave me a sense of witnessing scenes unique to non-touristified tulou.
It was a wonderful tulou where you could glimpse the peaceful lives of the Hakka people.
Hehong Tulou Cluster, Known as “Big Dipper”
Hehongkeng Tulou Cluster, where 14 tulou of various sizes are arranged, centered around seven symbolic tulou.
The next destination, Hehong Tulou Cluster, is located in Hekeng Natural Village in Qujiang District, Shuyang Town, Nanjing County, Fujian Province. It’s said to be a collective settlement of the Zhang clan built over more than 700 years from the middle Yuan Dynasty (1308-1338) to the 1960s.
This tulou cluster consists of 14 tulou, including square-shaped Chaoshui Lou, Yangzhao Lou, Yongsheng Lou, Shengqing Lou, Yongrong Lou, Yonggui Lou, circular Yuchang Lou, Chungui Lou, Dongsheng Lou, Xiaochun Lou, Yongqing Lou, Yuxing Lou, and pentagonal Nanxun Lou, arranged like two Big Dippers. The arrangement reflects the philosophy of “square and round harmony” and “yin and yang harmony,” earning it the nicknames “Celestial Mountain Pavilions” and “Big Dipper.”
A Hidden Scenic Spot for Those in the Know
Travel enthusiasts have probably seen this photo before? This view is actually from an observation deck near Hehongkeng Tulou Cluster.
This Hehong Tulou Cluster is also known as the place that graced the cover of the inaugural issue of “TRANSIT,” a magazine highly regarded among travel enthusiasts. Since there’s an observation deck near the tulou cluster that offers panoramic views of this beautiful landscape, you’ll want to visit it as a set when you come here.
Large and small tulou standing by the riverside. The scenery unique to Hehongkeng Tulou Cluster takes your breath away.
Incidentally, a quick-thinking staff member suggested, “Since you have a drone, why don’t you try photographing from above?” So we decided to look down at the tulou from above.
While some tulou had group tourists visiting, overall there wasn’t the bustling atmosphere like Yunshui Yao, making it perfect for leisurely strolling.
Here too, there were few tourists, and souvenir shop stalls were sparse. Perhaps differences in exposure through domestic dramas and other media affect the number of tourists.
How Was It?
Due to travel time constraints to the next destination, our exploration of Hehong Tulou Cluster was relatively brief, but the time spent at the quiet and calm Shunyu Lou and Hehong Tulou Cluster, in contrast to the bustle at Yunshui Yao, allowed us to fully appreciate the charm of non-touristified tulou.
Next time, we plan to report on our visit to Xiaban Village, which was the final destination of that day.
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